How to build a simple Swartz
/ Furford Magtet
Project 1:
This is the way to build a simple
magtet using inexpensive nonmagnetic materials generally found
around the home or small shop. You will need super
glue, epoxy resin, copper wire of the type used in electric motor
windings (well insulated by enamel/lacquer coating) and corrugated
cardboard of the type found in heavier boxes. Have disposable
plastic gloves on hand, sandpaper, small disposable containers
for mixing resin and acetone for cleaning disposable brushes.
A razor knife is also suggested, and an Ohm meter for testing
for resistance and continuity. The size of the wire in gage will
determine current requirements (amperage). I suggest 18-22 gage
wire for small units. Normally this wire can be obtained from
Radio Shack, or any good hardware store. Robbing the field coils
from an electric motor will also suffice. By using and Ohm meter,
you should have at least 1-2 Ohm resistance for the wire size
you have chosen, tested by placing the meter probes on opposite
ends of the wire. D.C. watts is amps times volts and at one ohm
12 volts times 10 amps equals 120 watts. (Keep in mind the temperature
of a 100 watt light bulb). Along with the razor blade type knife,
transparent Scotch tape, a soldering kit, shrink tubing and/or
a good electrical tape will also be needed. Power source for low
voltage can be obtained from a 12 volt car battery, or a doorbell
transformer may be substituted. DC current is best for testing
and if a transformer is used for power, it should be attached
to a rectifier. It is to be understood that electricity and magnetic
field coils are dangerous and simple electrical safety procedures
should be followed at the time of startup. The template below
is accurate enough and if you wish for a larger size, scale the
drawing up on your computer, print it out and carefully cut it out on the red outline. The
blue lines will become folding points.
Glue the template onto the piece of cardboard cut from a box,
making sure none of the pattern lines are parallel to the corrugations
as depicted above. After cutting out the template, attach
it to the cardboard using rubber cement or contact cement. Paste
may also be used. (You are making a form or mold that will be
ultimately removed.) Now using your razor
knife, cut through the top layer of cardboard and corrugations
along the blue lines, but not through the bottom layer, in other
words, not all the way through. (This is to assist
in folding and alignment.) See below...
Now
we will trim (notch) along the cuts, at an approximate 15 degree
angle along both sides of the cuts that you made on the blue line.
(All of these cuts will fall to the inside of the mold when folded.)
See below...
Get
the tape and super glue out, and it helps to have a straight edge
or ruler handy. Fold the pattern with the notches to the inside
and fully align the outside edges together after trimming them
carefully to an approximate 30 degrees with the razor knife, using
tape or glue. The result will be a tetrahedron that has an open
base, a triangular cone, so to speak. Using a needle and long
thread, push a hole through the tip of the triangular cone so
it will hang with the open base down, like a Christmas ornament.
It is now time to get the epoxy resin out and follow the instructions
for the mix, using just enough to coat the mold inside and out.
There will be more than one coat, but allow the first coat to
penetrate well and cure. This process may be speeded up by
applying heat with a hair dryer or heat lamp. The applying of
all of the glues and epoxies should be done in a well ventilated
area, and the breathing of the vapors should be avoided.
After the epoxy is set, using sandpaper, remove any drips from
the edges of the open bottom. Your cute little three sided pyramid
is now ready to have the "stops" manufactured and installed.
Using the same box, place the pyramid on a cardboard piece that
is at least 1-1 1/2 inches larger than the base of the tetrahedron
and place a drop of super glue at each of the bottom corners.
Using a ruler and/or a compasses, mark out a pattern somewhat
like the diagram below. Using the razor
knife, cut on the red outline completely through and lift out.
It
is now time to mix some more epoxy, hang the unit and recoat the
entire thing, including the bottom. Let the resin cure, again
speeding up the process by using gentle heat if you wish. This
is your bottom stop to assist in wire winding. Now we have to
make a top stop. When it is finished, you will have an odd
shaped wiring spool, a gage and a mold which you will ultimately
destroy when the finished product is ready for dismounting.
Cut
a small triangular hole that the top point of the pyramid will
fit into for securing purposes in a new pattern based upon the
bottom stop. Super glue this piece onto the top of the tetrahedral
pyramid, and again coat the entire resulting unit lightly with
epoxy including the top surface of the top piece and let cure.
All corners and all edges should align
if your base patterns were of the same size. Your result should
look like something below.
The
spool you have opted to build should look like one of these. The
second spool is a little easier to work with as the wire has to
be hand wound. NOTE: Ideally the wire would be drawn with a
triangular equilateral cross section. This type of wire does not
exist to my knowledge. It would also be an alloy consisting of
(86.6% silver and 13.4% gold (by volume). A second alloy would
be to take the alloy of gold and silver, and add it to pure copper
at the volume ratio of 86.6% copper and 13.4% silver/gold.
Remember, the field strength of the electro magnetic is governed
by AMPS x TURNS. The less resistance in the wire, the greater
the potential strength from current flow. Watts are simply amps
x volts when working with direct current. Because the resulting
fields are squeezed into a potential infinitesimal point, heat
build very fast in such a grid. This is why epoxy is used in conjunction
with well enameled insulted wire. This is also why we will be
removing the cardboard.
The spool you have finished will be
very strong considering the material you built it with. It should
be, for the tetrahedron is the force vector diagram of a sphere.
Now we have two holes to add to the mold, then the winding of
the wire can commence. See the bottom details...
Thread
the wire through the small top hole and leave about 6 inches extra
for later use. Wind in one direction which is the most comfortable
for you, keeping the wire as close and tight as you can, super
gluing it on the edges from time to time to keep it in place.
When you reach the base, wind the next layer by continuing on
in the same direction back to the top, keeping the windings tight
and even. Mix a small amount of epoxy and coat the two layers
of wire, letting the epoxy cure enough to hold everything in place,
and wind down and up again. Epoxy again and keep repeating this
procedure until all the wire is used. This
will be a real test of your patience and try for the utmost uniformity
and smoothness. The wire should "nest" like this...
By the time you have finished layering the windings and sealing,
you will find how difficult it was to keep the pyramid shape as
far as the flatness of the sides and growing corner radii because
you are bending round wire instead of triangularly drawn filament.
Because we are working in a triangular system, everything within
the system would stay more predictable and be more efficient with
tighter wire packing with filament drawn for the system shape.
Because round wire is the system standard, normal losses can be
expected at 13.4% (Approximate) and even with adjustments made
by special laminated iron cores in transformers, 100% efficiency
is never achieved and never will be. It is a patched system based
upon the irrational number we all call Pi. Keep in mind a transformer
and an induction coil are essentially the same thing.
As
you can see below, you will have to punch a small hole again at
the top of the Magtet and thread the remaining wire through. Leave
yourself another six inches extra and cut the wire off. Lightly
recoat the outside wire windings with epoxy. If you used continuous
enameled wire without splices, the unit you have formed will be
water proof. From this point you can choose to encase the unit
in an epoxy pour and so on because by now you should be well aware
of what you are doing with molds and resins. However for testing
purposes, the cardboard from the unit should be removed, at least
the bottom stop. This is accomplished by carefully cutting out
the center of the cardboard frame (bottom), and peeling it away.
The bottom layer of paper will stay glued to the wire. Get rid
of the excess. Now that you have the feel for this, carefully
peel away the top stop, always taking care not to scrape or hurt
the wire in anyway. Next soak the unit in plain warm water and
work the remaining paper of with your fingers and/or a something
like a plastic dish scouring pad. When you are satisfied with
the result, let the entire unit dry for a day at 70-90 degrees
F. temperature. Using needles and thread,
BB's, and so on, inspect the unit's fields by hooking to a power
source. I suggest you stay with twelve volts unless your level
of electrical expertise allows you a higher voltage test grid.
In short, we refuse to be held responsible for situations beyond
our control. Electricity and magnetic fields can be lethal.
Project 2:
Now build a total of 4 of these with exactly the same amount
of turns and resistance. (It goes without saying the wire
should be of the same size, and in reality from the same batch
of manufactured wire.) Now build a "stick" type tetrahedron
using nonferrous materials twice the length of a side of your
original pattern. Wood doweling works good and you will need six
lengths. This will be your aiming grid. Place a Magtet at each
of the apex's or corners. The result should look like the following...
Can
you see where we are going? These Magtets are extremely directional
and the more current pushed through them, the farther the field
reaches with very little projection on the outside and back. When
they are wired parallel, what would happen to a small ball bearing
hung in the middle? If the bottom three were A.C. powered, and
the top one was merely used as a current collector induced by
the resultant of the lower fields, what would be the result?
There are so many things to investigate
are far as this natural system is concerned, including the four
sided pyramids formed within the tetrahedron, capacitance surface
potential, and computer algorithms last but not least. Can you
see the pyramids? Perhaps the pictures below will assist those
who lack spatial abilities...
Now what differences would occur by winding a pyramid as opposed
to a Magtet? It should be obvious to you when you think balance
and rigidity. The pictures that follow will give you a hint...
The
BB's will stack vertically in the corners at 90 degrees to the
floor. They will seek the vertices first, avoiding alignment along
the edges. This is not true with a pyramid. Perhaps the following
picture will help you...
Now
do you understand? If you do, you are well on your way to understanding
the mathematics of the "gods"... and the way to the
stars will be truly written in cyberspace. It will not be easy,
for awareness is earned and not earned lightly. Science today
thinks spherically and cubic, ignoring the true primary building
block of the universe.
People have asked me from time to time, sometimes very nervously, what prompted me to venture into this murky area of science and math. I was told by an old sea captain, one Donald Gamble of San Francisco, that nothing in the tetrahedron made sense, and it was dangerous to even attempt anything with it. It doesn't bother me, for I now live in home designed around three of them. It is a huge FM receptor that nicely pulls in T.V. signals as far away as Portland Oregon, and I live in the southern foothills of the Olympic mountains. Local aircraft as well as others use my place as a visual landmark from the air, calling it the "Star House". The PAL Oils are tetrahedral designed oils... Now the president of the Atlantic Richfield Company stated during the gas crunch some years back, "I'm in the business to sell energy. What is it worth to you...." Hearing him lose his temper and telling Mike Wallace that on Sixty Minutes was the frosting on the cake as far as I was concerned. Maybe it was the fact I knew the entire thing was merely a public manipulation and I resented the lines and every other day rationing. All of the above is my gentle way of telling him to get lost.... that this planet does not need the long term profit planning of the mega corporations who are known for their ability to poison ground water, the air, and kill children with their chemical dumps and toxic vapors. Moving this attitude from the United States to third world countries does not solve this attitude problem. What is so criminal about this is it is not necessary...
Sincerely, Allen D. Furford
